2018 Results & Leaderboards

Leaders Circle (presented alphabetically)

The Leaders Circle includes the top scoring participants against the 2018 PFM Index. The Circle celebrates top performers across the qualitative as well as quantitative elements of the Index, including Strategy, Supply Chain, Consumer Engagement, as well as Consumption. The PFM Leaderboards remain for company rankings by volume.

We welcome the new approach that Textile Exchange is taking in moving from ranking brands solely on volume toward recognizing brands for their holistic leadership in preferred fibers and materials. The new Leaders Circles aim to recognize brands that are going beyond volumes, toward holistic and impactful material strategies and a new era of preferred fiber and material sourcing approaches.

– Jeffrey Hogue, C&A

Vallabh and Prabhaben, organic cotton farmers. Photo: Ben Langdon for C&A Foundation

2018 Snapshot

111 Companies | 17 Countries | Estimated Turnover US$ 1.65 Trillion | 80 Returning Participants | 43 Founders Club | 31 New Participants

  • AB Lindex
    adidas AG
    ALANA (dm-drogerie markt)
    ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG
    ALDI South International
    Amberoot
    ARMEDANGELS (Social Fashion Company GmbH)
    Arthur and Henry
    ASOS
    Bluey Merino
    Boll & Branch
    Brooks Running
    Burberry
    Burton
    C&A Global
    Columbia Sportswear Company
    Continental® (Continental Clothing)
    Coop Switzerland
    Cotonea (Gebr. Elmer & Zweifel)
    Country Road Group
    Coyuchi, Inc.
    Cream Workwear
    DECATHLON
    Dedicated
    Dibella
    EarthPositive® (Continental Clothing)
  • EILEEN FISHER, Inc.
    Esprit
    Ethicus
    Fair Share (Continental Clothing)
    Fat Face Ltd
    Fjällräven International
    Forest srl
    FRILUFTS
    G-Star RAW C.V.
    Gap Inc.
    greenfibres
    Gucci
    H&M
    Hanky Panky
    Helly Hansen AS
    HempAge AG
    Hemtex
    Hess Natur-Textilien GmbH
    House of Fraser
    HUGO BOSS
    Icebreaker
    Indigenous Designs
    Inditex Group
    Inter Ikea Group
    KALANI-Home
    KappAhl Sverige AB
    Kathmandu
    Kering
    KnowledgeCotton Apparel
  • Kuyichi B.V.
    LA SIESTA
    Levi Strauss & Co.
    Loomstate
    Mantis World
    Mara Hoffman
    Marc O’Polo
    Marks and Spencer
    MEC
    METAWEAR
    Mini Rodini
    MQ
    Mud Jeans International BV
    Nature USA/BGREEN
    New Balance Athletics, Inc.
    Next Retail Ltd
    NIKE, Inc.
    Norrøna Sport
    Nudie Jeans
    Otto Group
    Outerknown
    Pact
    Patagonia
    People Tree
    prAna
    PUMA SE
    PVH Corp
    Ramblers Way Farm, LLC
    RE.SUSTAIN
  • REI
    Sainsburys
    Salvage® (Continental Clothing)
    Samsonite
    SKFK
    Stanley/Stella
    Stella McCartney
    Target Corporation
    Tchibo GmbH
    Ted Baker (No Ordinary Designer Label Limited)
    Tesco
    Teva (Deckers Brands)
    The North Face
    TIERRA
    Timberland
    toad & co
    Trendsetter International
    UGG (Deckers Brands)
    Under the Canopy
    VARNER
    Veja
    Volcom
    Washbär (Triaz GmbH)
    WestPoint Home LLC
    Williams-Sonoma, Inc.
    WOOLWORTHS (PTY) LTD
    zLabels GmbH
2018 Participants

At Inditex, we are committed now and in the future to doing business sustainably and responsibly. As part of this, we have a clear commitment to using resources efficiently in our supply chain. The Preferred Fibers & Materials Benchmark has become a key component of this strategy enabling us to measure our progress in the use of sustainable raw materials.

– Felix Poza, Inditex

“Aunty”, Collector, India. Photo: Plastics for Change

Leaderboards

About the Leaderboards

The PFM* Leaderboards are based on the participating companies’ self-reported consumption data**.

PFM Leaderboards include:

  • Top by Volume: Companies that reported the highest consumption volumes for 2017.
  • Top by Growth: Companies that reported their consumption for 2016 and 2017 and showed the highest growth rate over the two years.
  • 100% Club: Companies belonging to the 100% Club have achieved the status of all relative fiber coming from the relative PFM or portfolio of PFMs.
  • Race To The Top: Companies that are closing the gap between conventional and preferred fibers in their portfolio. (This ranking excludes companies that belong to the 100% Club.)

PFM Leaderboards currently cover the following PFMs and Portfolios:

  • Preferred Cotton: Organic | Organic Fair Trade | Recycled | Portfolio (BCI, CmiA, Fair Trade, Organic, Organic Fair Trade, Recycled)
  • Preferred Polyester: Recycled
  • Preferred Manmade Cellulosics: pLyocell | Portfolio (pLyocell, pModal, pViscose according to definition)
  • Preferred Down: Portfolio (Responsible Down Standard (RDS), Traceable Down Standard (TDS), Downpass, Recycled)
  • Preferred Wool: Portfolio (Organic, Responsible Wool Standard (RDS) and equivalencies, Recycled)

*See definitions for further details of the PFMs
**While Textile Exchange reviews all data entries, checks calculations, and carries out consistency checks, it does not verify the accuracy of the data. That responsibility remains with the participating company.

Organic Cotton

Recycled Cotton

Portfolio

BCI | CmiA | Fair Trade | Organic | Organic Fair Trade | REEL Cotton | Recycled Cotton

* Uses either 100% organic cotton or a mix of organic and recycled cotton.

rPET

Lyocell

Portfolio

Preferred Lyocell | Preferred Modal | Preferred Viscose | Recycled Cellulose

* 100% of pMMC is lyocell

Preferred Down

Responsible Down | Traceable Down | Downpass Certified | Recycled Down

Preferred Wool

Organic Wool | Responsible Wool | Recycled Wool

At ASOS we have analyzed the environmental footprint of the fibers we use in our garments and home textiles. We scoped out our consumption leading to the prioritization and action plan for cotton, polyester and viscose. Using the PFMB as a research tool, we have created a fiber switching framework for our retail teams to follow in order to switch to more sustainable alternatives. We have used the PFMB to benchmark our progress in relation to other retailers and brands to support our sustainability strategy, and continue to refer to it as a key resource.

– Tara Luckman, ASOS

Cotton Recycler, Spain. Photo: Recover/ Hilaturas Ferre S.A.

Benchmark Dashboard

The PFM Benchmark dashboard provides an overview of the reported PFM consumption, portion of total consumption the PFM claim represents, and an equivalent estimated benefit based upon the PFM volume.

Uptake & Outcome Benefits

Preferred Cotton

2018: 940,533 mt
2017: 622,359 mt
2016: 319,248 mt

47%
47% Preferred Cotton
53% Conventional Cotton
1.15 million ha
Land under organic or
improved management
Preferred Polyester

2018: 98,052 mt
2017: 50,139 mt
2016: 43,482 mt

8%
8% Preferred Polyester
92% Virgin Polyester
5.93 billion
PET bottles diverted
from landfill
Preferred Manmade Cellulosics

2018: 35,273 mt
2017: 25,802 mt
2016: – no data

3.4%
3.4% Preferred MMCs
96.6% Conventional Viscose
13,539 ha
Area of sustainably
sourced wood
Preferred Down

2018: 2,732 mt
2017: 1,710 mt
2016: 892 mt

94%
94% Preferred Down
6% Conventional Down
122 million
Number of birds covered
Preferred Wool

2018: 2,772 mt
2017: – no data
2016: – no data

20%
20% Preferred Wool
80% Conventional Wool
244,000
Organic or RWS equivalent
number of sheep
26,904 mt
rCotton fiber upcycled into
new textile products
1,553 mt
rWool fiber upcycled into
new textile products

We are very pleased to be ranked in the PFM leaderboards for the second year running. By participating in the PFM Benchmark, ALDI North gains valuable information on the development of our efforts towards more sustainable textile fibers, compared to the results of other relevant actors in the market. The results motivate us to gradually increase our use of more sustainable fibers and hence to achieve even better results in years to come. The PFM Benchmark also enables us to further commit to ambitious goals, e.g. to increase the use of sustainable cotton for the German market to 30% in 2018, and thus supports our shift towards a more transparent and sustainable textile value chain.

– Rayk Mende, ALDI Einkauf GmbH & Co. oHG

Upcycling the oceans. Photo: Ecoalf

Terminology & Methodologies

PFM Index
The PFM Index result is derived from a company’s Section 1: Strategy score plus the average score for Sections 2: Supply Chain, 3: Consumption and 4: Consumer Engagement of a company’s top three performing preferred fibers or materials (PFMs) modules. Until now, a company has had the option to complete as few or as many modules as they wish (including only a single module). Going forward, the Index will become more aligned to a company’s priority fibers, focusing on the key elements of their portfolio.

Founders Club
Of the 87 companies who completed the benchmark survey in 2018, 43 have completed it three years in a row. These 43 companies form the Founders Club, participating consecutively year on year.

Leaders Circle
In 2018, we introduced the Leaders Circle. This group includes the top scoring participants against the PFM Index. The aim is to celebrate top-performers across the qualitative as well as quantitative elements of the Index, including Strategy, Supply Chain, Consumer Engagement, as well as Consumption. Until now, a company has had the option to complete as few or as many modules as they wish (including only a single module). Going forward, the Index will become more aligned to a company’s priority fibers, focusing on the key elements of their portfolio.

PFM Leaderboards
The PFM Leaderboard rankings are based on a company’s self-reported consumption data for each fiber. Leaderboards PFM Leaderboards include: Top by Volume, Top by Growth, 100% Club, Race To The Top: Companies that are closing the gap between conventional and preferred fibers in their portfolio. (This ranking excludes companies that belong to the 100% Club.)

Disclaimer:
The Textile Exchange PFM Benchmark is based on participant self-assessment. While Textile Exchange reviews all data entries, checks calculations, and carries out consistency checks, it does not verify the accuracy of the data or disclosures within a company’s survey submission, or the process of preparing the disclosures. That responsibility remains with the participating company.

Land under more sustainable cotton agriculture:
Certified organic land area (hectares) is based on data from Textile Exchange’s data collection program. Land under BCI, CmiA, and Fair Trade production is estimated based on data provided by each initiative.

Bottles diverted from landfill:
Estimates of the number of PET bottles (recycled into polyester) are based on conversion factors shared by certification bodies.

Land under certified forestry:
Calculations are based on Lenzing, 2010, LCA of MMC fibers. Consumption of pViscose, pLyocell and pModal is calculated back to land use based on assumptions in the study. Then aggregated on total land basis, irrespective of origin.

Birds covered by down standards:
Geese and duck number estimations are based on conversions shared by key suppliers and J. Kozák, 2011, An Overview of Feathers Formation, Moults and Down Production in Geese.

Sheep covered by wool standards:
Sheep number estimates are based on conversions shared by key industry stakeholders, and the consultation and validation of these figures with multiple wool stakeholders.

Textile waste upcycled into new products:
rCotton and rWool

PFM Portfolio of Options

The preferred Cotton (pCotton) portfolio offers the largest number of options, including Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), CottonConnect’s REEL Cotton (REEL), Cotton made in Africa (CmiA), Fair Trade Cotton (FT), Organic Cotton (OC), and Recycled Cotton (rCotton).

The preferred Polyester portfolio currently includes Recycled Polyester (rPET) as the only PFM option. Recycled Polyester (rPET) uses mainly post-consumer plastic (PET) bottles and packaging, or pre/post-consumer textile waste as the raw material. rPET can be either mechanically or chemically recycled into filament or staple fiber. The Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard) are Chain of Custody standards to track recycled polyesters through the supply chain. The GRS, in addition, requires social and environmental criteria to be met during the processing stages.

The definition of a preferred Manmade Cellulosic (pMMC) is evolving. For the purpose of the Benchmark a pMMC will have the following attributes:

  • Feedstocks
    All feedstocks must be low risk of being sourced from ancient and endangered forests as verified by publicly available CanopyStyle Audits, and certified to a forest sustainability standard (e.g. FSC). The goal is that all sources of feedstock maximize FSC-certified pulp to validate sustainable forest practices. Where LCA’s confirm lower impact, waste inputs are preferred such as left-over straw and recycled cotton inputs.
  • Manufacturing
    pMMCs must be produced according to Best Available Technologies in regards to water, energy, chemicals, waste, etc. Standards include EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX STeP.
  • Traceability
    Companies should be mapping suppliers, and implementing a traceability management system. The CanopyStyle Audits create traceability from forest to pMMC producer. Some suppliers offer traceability through their own systems.
  • Impact
    There is demonstrated environmental impact savings of the pMMC fiber compared with generic viscose, validated via an independent intermediary such as the Higg MSI or Life Cycle Assessments validated by a non-interested party.

Preferred lyocell is best in class, made in a closed-loop system that recycles the majority of the solvent used. Technologies for chemically recycling cellulose materials are increasingly providing opportunities to replace virgin inputs, and will be considered in this program in the future.

The preferred Down (pDown) portfolio currently incorporates products certified to either the Responsible Down Standard (RDS), Traceable Down Standard (TDS), Downpass, or an organic standard e.g. Organic Content Standard (OCS) or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Among other animal welfare criteria, pDown excludes feathers/down from birds that have been live plucked or force-fed. The portfolio of pDown options also includes recycled down (e.g. certified to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Content Standard (RCS), SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard).

The preferred Wool (pWool) portfolio includes wool that is grown with a progressive approach to land management, and animal welfare. The portfolio of options includes wool produced to the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) or its equivalencies, organic e.g. Organic Content Standard (OCS) or Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), and recycled wool e.g. certified to the Global Recycled Standard (GRS), Recycled Content Standard (RCS), SCS Recycled Content (RC) Standard.

Sub-sector Categories

Multi-Sector/Apparel (Extra Large)
Description: Extra large apparel and multi-sector companies and retailers. Submissions from holding companies are also included in this sub-sector.
Product categories: Fashion, family, baby, basics, intimates, workwear/uniforms and home textiles.

Apparel (Large)
Description: Large and mid-size companies and retailers of mainly apparel.
Product categories: Designer, luxury, fashion, family, baby, basics, and intimates.

Apparel (Small/Medium)
Description: Small to mid-size companies and retailers of mainly apparel. Also includes submissions based on “product line” (even if the company size would place them in Large or Extra Large.
Product categories: Designer, fashion, family, baby, basics, intimates and workwear/uniforms.

Sports/Outdoor
Description: Companies and retailers, all sizes, of outdoor, sportswear, and footwear.
Product categories: Mountain, active and performance sports, yoga, lifestyle, and footwear.

Home Textiles
Description: Companies and retailers, all sizes, of exclusively or predominantly home textiles. Catering and hospitality companies are also included in this sub-sector.
Product categories: Dining (table cloths, napkins), bed and bath, and indoor or outdoor soft furnishing.

After the initial pilot in 2015, the Preferred Fiber & Materials Benchmark (PFMB) has now run for three consecutive years (2016-2018). The number of participants has doubled since the launch and the PFMB has become the biggest benchmark of its kind, with over 100 participants. This opens up many opportunities for the sector, including closer alignment with the Sustainable Development Goals, and it is now time to transition to its next level of ambition.

The review team, including a steering committee chaired by C&A Global will deliver the review over the next six months for release of the 2019 PFMB survey at the beginning of May. A full stakeholder consultation will be integral to the review and to ensuring that the program remains business led. For more information, contact Liesl Truscott at Liesl@TextileExchange.org

Annual Reports
2018 – PFMB Insights Report (pdf)
2018 – Sector & Sub-Sector Feedback Report (pdf)
2018 – Sample Company Feedback Report (pdf)
2017 – PFMB Insights Report and Key Insights (pdf)
2016 – PFMB Sector Report (pdf)
2015 – PFMB Pilot Report (pdf)

Support Material
About the Benchmark (pdf)

Coming soon for 2019:
Getting Started Video Series (new)
Guidance Notes (updated)
Technical Notes (updated)



The PFM Benchmark is managed through a portal called “Probench” developed by our software partners, 73Bit Ltd.

This Program is kindly sponsored by:

   

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About organic cotton

Organic cotton is cotton that is produced and certified to organic agricultural standards.

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PFM ROUND TABLES

Preferred Fiber & Material Round Tables

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2017 Market reports

The 2017 Preferred Fiber & Materials Report and the Organic Cotton Market Report are joined by the "Insider" Series.

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PFM Benchmark

The Preferred Fiber & Materials (PFM) Benchmark helps companies measure, manage and integrate a PFM strategy.

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SUSTAINABILITY ASSESSMENT

A framework for assessing the environmental, social & economic impacts of organic cotton agriculture.

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A selection of some of the key terms and abbreviations used in the industry.

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